Indian and Pakistani Salwar Kameez
One of the traditional costumes of South Asia Salwar kameez is favored by a large number of women in India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Bangla Desh. Salwar kameez is also known as Punjabi suit since it is a very popular outfit in Indian
and Pakistani Punjabis. Salwar is termed as salwar in Hindi and Punjabi, shalwaar in Gujarati and shalwar in Urdu, the Pakistani language while kameez is known as Qamiz in Pakistan. The salwar suit includes a bottom wear called salwar, a top kameez and a dupatta.
Salwar is a pajama like trousers that is loose and wider at the waist and thighs and becoming narrower at the bottom. Usually salwar has pleats at the waist and held up at the waist with the help of a drawstring or an elastic belt or a woven cord known as “Naala” or “Nssda”. Salwars are available in various designs. The normal salwars are wide like baggies, but some of the ultra modern women like to have only tight fitting salwars termed as pyjamis/churidar or churidar pyjamis. Patiala and Malwa region of Indian Punjab produce a loose variety of salwars known as Patiala shahi salwars with pleats at the front and the back. Patiala’s waist cord ‘Naala’/’Naada’ is also as famous as its Shahi salwars.
Kameez is like a long shirt or tunic with side seams, known as ‘chaak’, that are left open below the waist line giving free movement to the wearer. Traditional kameez looks flat with straight cuts and side cuts while modern kameez is provided with latest set-in-sleeves. Traditional kameez is either loose or normal whereas fashionable ladies opt for tight-fitting, figure-hugging kameez. A kameez requires tailoring skills to be stitched beautifully, specifically the neckline that might be either simple or decorated with embroideries, beads, mirrors, stones etc…
Dupatta is a long scarf or shawl-like cloth of light material worn by women around their heads or necks along with salwar suits. Often North Indian and Punjabi married women cover their head with the dupatta before elderly relatives like father-in-law and while at religious places or ceremonies.
Some ultra-modern kameez are tight fitting with deep cut plunging necks and short length. They might be sleeveless or styled in cup-sleeve designs and made in diaphanous materials. Some latest kameez are seen with the side seams start splitting from the waistline and salwars are tied very low on the hips. Some ultra fashion-aware women wear semi-transparent kameez mostly while going to parties, but they wear a choli or a cropped camisole as undergarment.
Salwar kameez is stitched in various fabrics, such as cotton, chiffon, silk, Banarasi fabrics, polycot and synthetics and some imported materials. Cotton suits are ideal for summer wear and daily use and are affordable while chiffon is finer and costlier than cotton. Luxurious and expensive silk suits adorned with various materials are worn on very special occasions. Usually fine light materials are used for stitching salwar kameez.